Flying from the mayhem of modern life to the endless horizons of Malilangwe Reserve in southeast Zimbabwe is a slow retreat into the senses. From the air, the landscape looks like a game of snakes and ladders with rich, red soil and burnished grasslands interspersed with seams of orange rock and crisscrossing dirt roads. As the plane begins its gradual descent to Buffalo Ridge Airport, ancient baobabs and massive acacias come into view and remain a constant on the drive to our destination, Singita Pamushana.
Pamushana was first opened fifteen years ago by the Singita Group in an extraordinary show of faith, at a time when the country’s social, financial and civic infrastructures had all but collapsed. Working with leading South African design studio Cecile & Boyd’s, Singita’s brief for a sensational lodge to match the spectacular landscape was more than met by Boyd Ferguson, Geordi da Sousa Costa and Paul van den Berg who devised a contemporary aesthetic of bold graphics, bright colors, and African decorative traditions. So it was somewhat serendipitous that Singita should have decided to close the lodge earlier this year, in order to give the property an entire overhaul and refurbish, and unwittingly coinciding with the country’s new political dispensation.